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Do All Pre-1933 Gold Coins Have a Mint Mark (Letter?)
Earlier this summer, I bought a gold coin in Korea (from a very reputable dealer) that is a spot dead on 1912 $10 Indian Head gold coin. I sent it home to get graded and the coin dealer doesn't think it's a real coin because it doesn't have the "D" or "S" mark on it.
It's real gold as far as we can tell, the weight's right and it isn't affected by Nitric Acid. I'm going to have it assayed to see exactly what the hell it is. Do all gold coins need the mint mark or were some printed without them? |
Re: Do All Pre-1933 Gold Coins Have a Mint Mark (Letter?)
Your coin was minted in Philadelphia, therefore no mintmark.
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Re: Do All Pre-1933 Gold Coins Have a Mint Mark (Letter?)
Quote:
No need to go to the expense or hassle of getting it assayed, it's the real deal, in terms of gold content. No way to get the weight right within the correct dimensions and for it to be anything other than gold. There have been instances of certain gold coins being counterfiet with an even higher percentage of gold than the orignal, when there was numismatic value over and above the gold content. Somehow, I doubt that is the case here. As to the mint mark, I know nothing about that aspect. |
Re: Do All Pre-1933 Gold Coins Have a Mint Mark (Letter?)
I would find another dealer. The dealer should know that they didn't mint this coin in Denver that year. You may want to get a Redbook so you know the mintages and potential numismatic value before you buy. Since you got this at a small premium over spot I think you got a great deal.
65GT350 |
Re: Do All Pre-1933 Gold Coins Have a Mint Mark (Letter?)
in regards to my previous comments_grin_
The Fisch fake coin detector works on the principle which I mentioned - http://www.fisch.co.za/ If the weight and dimensions are correct, it is gold bullion. Gold is the most dense metal. Consequently, if anyone puts in lead or another metal, and plates it or whatever - it won't weigh enough. I understand that using the Fisch items, the coin must fit down in the relieved round area, and pass thru the hole and then balance correctly for the weight. I don't own one. I simply use a sensitive scale that reads in tenths of a grain, and calipers. You can find weights and dimensions on-line for just about everything - or compare to a known good sample. One of the posters here felt like he had been ripped off when he received his Fisch. Essentially, it's a piece of plastic made to balance correctly for a specific coin. Other posters have commented that they use the Fisch units and/or have seen dealers use them. Note: I am not promoting the Fisch unit, simply mentioning it's existence and the principle it works on. I personally would suggest getting a sensitive scale and calipers instead. They will work on any coin - you are limited by the Fisch units to specific coins, and they're pretty pricey. A scale and calipers work fine for me. The last (only?) time I have ever seen a dealer check a coin, he just put it on the scale that was sitting on his counter. I weigh all bullion when I get it home, or receive it. You don't wanna find out five years from now, or worse - when you try to sell it, that it's not the real thing. |
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